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It is assumed that anyone attempting the walk has
suitable clothing and the ability to navigate should
the need arise. Before leaving your car make certain
it is locked and nothing is on view that could attract
the unwelcome attention of thieves who, sadly, do
target our beauty spots.
Lastly leave a note of your intended route and
time of return; this could be done on Galloway Mountain
Rescue Teams web site at www.gallowaymrt.org.uk
where there is a dedicated route planner.
However, on with the walk following a route that
arguably gives some of the finest views of the four
ranges in the Galloway Hills.
On leaving your car take the path to Bruce’s Stone
and as you read the inscription imagine that it
is March 1307 and you are Robert the Bruce, high
on the lofty grandeur of the hill at your back,
the Fell of Eschoncan. You watch the march of the
English soldiers along the narrow defile that skirted
the opposite shore of Loch Trool walking into the
ambush set for them at the Steps of Trool, lying
at the foot of the 1800 feet steep sided Mulldonoch.
You sound the bugle that resonates around the glen
signalling an avalanche of boulders on the unsuspecting
soldiers. Those who fled eastwards ran straight
into your men who put them to the sword.
Somehow it is difficult to equate the tranquillity
and beauty of this area with the spilling of blood,
not only in 1307, but also in 1685 during the Covenanting
times.
When Bruce traversed the hills around Loch Trool
they were covered with native deciduous trees affording
him total cover. Today the hills are denuded of
oak, rowan and birch replaced in 1947 by the fast
growing Sitka Spruce. The village of Glentrool did
not exist until 1953.
As we look eastward towards the broad valley of
the Glenhead Burn the remnants of the native sessile
oak fringe the first mile of our walk along a track
to Glenhead farm. We cross a bridge over the Buchan
Burn built in 1851 by Randolph, Ninth Earl of Galloway.
An inscription from Sir Walter Scott’s poetry appropriately
reads:
“Land of brown heath and shaggy wood,
Land of the mountain and the flood,
Land of my sires ! what mortal hand
Can e’er untie the filial band
That knits me to thy rugged strand.”
The farmstead at Buchan was built in 1856 in the
style of a turreted baronial-looking small castle,
and although it does look out of place it adds a
romantic touch to the glen. The Buchan and Glenhead,
along with a number of other former homesteads,
gave shelter to many a traveller, and I have been
privileged to read one of the guest books revealing
an interesting insight into the type of person who
passed this way in the past two hundred years, including
the odd well known literary figure.
A few hundred yards before reaching Glenhead branch
right over the Glenhead Burn to join the Southern
Upland Way, the 212-mile footpath running from Portpatrick
in the west to Cockburnspath in the east. It is
now twenty years since this long distance footpath
was opened, and I recently again viewed Jimmie McGregor’s
television programme and it certainly did justice
to the beauty of Loch Trool. The next stretch follows
the Southern Upland way for two kilometres and on
leaving the trees your right hand is dominated by
Bennanbrack and Culeywee with the ridge of White
Hill running towards, the still out of sight, Loch
Dee. Continue to the watershed at Dargall Lane where
you leave the comfort of manmade roads and strike
up the ever-steepening ridge leading to the high
point of our walk, Craiglee.
If you are fortunate enough to be blessed with
a clear day the surrounding vistas are quite magnificent.
Looking back to our starting point the appetite
is whetted to what only gets better further into
the walk. Due south are the Minnigaff Hills, south
easterly the white sands of Loch Dee glisten and
beyond Clatteringshaws. In the northeast the Rhinns
of Kells seem to extend forever with Corserine their
highest point. Swinging our gaze a little further
anti-clockwise the Cooran Lane takes our eye to
the boggy Silver Flowe, a Sight of Special Scientific
Interest where a number of people have perished.
Looking due north the rugged granite of the Dungeon
Hills lie starkly bare, and in the distant north
west the Awfu Hand Range peeks its tops over the
Buchan ridge with the Merrick proudly standing above
all others.
The walk now follows the high ground overlooking
two of Galloway’s hidden jewels, the Glenhead Lochs,
shimmering in the afternoon sun, and in the distance
the pendant of all the lochs running southerly from
Loch Doon, Loch Trool, but from the elevated position
the sheer magnificence of the view takes the breath
away. The route continues along the Rig of Jarkness,
a name that is believed to have both Gaelic and
Norse derivations, and can mean ridge of the lonely
desolate waste, or ridge of the head of the cataract.
Both are equally descriptive. Walking along the
Rig to your right hand are Loch Narroch, Loch Valley
and Loch Neldricken where the Murder Hole, immortalised
in S. R. Crockett’s “The Raiders”, can be found.
The next part of the walk can be dictated by the
quantity of water flowing from Loch Valley into
the Gairland Burn. McBain in his “Merrick and the
Neighbouring Hills suggests that some form of dam
existed at the outflow of Loch Valley, and during
the salmon run the sluice gates would be opened
enabling them to swim upstream from Loch Trool.
This hypothesis is most unlikely.
If the Gairland Burn is running high the safest
route is to remain on the east bank and follow it
downhill to Glenhead and retrace your steps along
the rough road to Bruce’ Stone. However, if it is
safe, cross the Gairland Burn a short distance from
Loch Valley and take the well trodden, but often
muddy, path around Buchan Hill. By taking this route
the final kilometre to Buchan Farm is gently downhill
with “The Cradle of Scotland’s Independence”, Loch
Trool, as your final backdrop.
This walk is a good introduction to the Galloway
Hills giving a variety of terrains and certainly
a succession of wonderful views, and if you look
carefully wildlife abounds in the air and on the
ground.
Depending on your meanderings the total distance
could be ten miles.
The map of choice is Harveys Galloway Hills 1:25000
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