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Scotland's colourful and turbulent
history is well represented around the fringes of
the Galloway Hills, but seldom did anything of note
occur within their bleak confines. The first hunter-gatherers
settled along the coastal margins so that they could
live off the produce of both the land and the sea.
The hills will have been clothed in their original
wildwoods, with swampy areas and wild beasts. Although
a horde of Bronze Age implements was found on the
Fell of Eschoncan,
there are no traces of any hill forts or permanent
settlements. There is however, a reconstructed Romano-British
house near Clatteringshaws Loch. Although Whithorn
and Galloway are associated with the dawning of Christianity
in Scotland, all the old churches and big abbeys are
located some distance from the hills.
We're well into historical times
before there are truly momentous happenings on the
hills. Robert the Bruce and his tiny army of a few
hundred were hemmed into these wild hills by thousands
of English troops. The Bruce had killed Red Comyn
and hastily assumed kingship. Despite early successes
he was later forced to flee for his life, then had
difficulty raising an army. He embarked on a campaign
of guerilla warfare from the hills, where he used
the rocky, boggy terrain to his advantage in 1307.
With each success he was able to break from the hills
and extend his campaign throughout Scotland, finally
thrashing the English at Bannockburn in 1314.
In the turbulent years of the 'Killing
Times' through the latter half of the 1600s, the hills
again provided a refuge and safe haven for people
fleeing religious persecution. Furious debates had
centred on the need for bishops in the Scottish church,
and the extent of authority the king should wield.
Fiery preachers sprang up and some clerics were ousted
from their parishes, and as dissent was punishable
by heavy fines, imprisonment, torture or death, secret
'conventicles' were held in the hills. Even so, some
people were killed while attending these prayer meetings
in the hills and there are monuments to the 'Covenanters'
all over Galloway. There's a story behind every monument
and the victims are widely regarded as martyrs.
A novel called 'The Raiders' by S
R Crockett again focuses our attention on the hills.
Although fact and fiction are woven together in the
story, these hills really were used as a hideaway
for fierce gypsy clans - notably the Faas, Marshalls
and Macatericks. They seem to have lived by raiding
cattle and stealing goods from their neighbours. The
most colourful character in those times was surely
Billy Marshall, widley regarded as the gypsy 'king'.
He is repurted to have lived for 120 years, dying
in 1792. Many stories are told about him throughout
the region and they surely contain at least a grain
of truth.
The few farms that ever managed to
eke an existence out of the wild interior of the Galloway
Hills were abandoned and falling ruinous by 1900.
The land came into the hands of the Forestry Commission
and sheep rearing was replaced by timber growing.
The planting started in 1922, so some stands are coming
into maturity and are being clear felled. Replanting
is taking place so that timber can be harvested in
the future.
GALLOWAY FOREST PARK
The Galloway Forest Park covers much of the Forestry
Commission's holdings in the Galloway Hills. Some
250 square miles (670 sq km) of land was designated
as a Forest Park in 1943. Although the Forestry Commission's
primary purpose is to produce timber, not all the
land has been planted. There are no plantations on
the highest hills, where the trees simply do not thrive,
nor have all the boggy valleys been planted, even
though they would support forest cover.
The needs of conservation and recreation
have been recognised and the Forestry Commission have
provided some basic amenities and interpretative facilities
for visitors, as well as allowing virtually free access
on foot.
In recent years the visitor centres
at Kirroughtree, Clatteringshaws and Stroan Bridge
have been developed to provide first class facilities
in the heart of the park.
The 7 Stanes, Extreme Mountain Bike
routes at Dalbeattie and Kirroughtree provide an exhilarating
experience for experienced riders as well as more
sedate options suited to families or less ambitious
cyclists.
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