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***This walk is Fully Booked*** - see
The
Range of the Awful Hand as an equivalent
alternative
This superb high-level route follows
the long undulating ridgeline over the
peaks that make up the Rhinns of Kells,
from Coran of Portmark in the north to
Meikle Millyea in the south.
The walk, which is one of the classic
linear walks of the area, and one of the
finest in southern Scotland, is made possible
by the provision of transport to the start
and finish points. It offers some spectacular
scenery with views west across Loch Doon
and Mulwarchar to the Merrick and the
Range of the Awful Hand. To the east we
look across Cairnsmore of Carsphairn to
the Lowther Hills. Just about all the
main hills in Dumfries and Galloway can
be seen from the ridge. On a very clear
day even Ben Lomond can be spotted far
away to the north.
This is a demanding walk as it involves
over 1100 metres of ascent and covers
a total distance of 21 kilometres. It
is suited to the fit and experienced hillwalker
but although it is quite arduous most
of the ground underfoot is excellent.
No scrambling is involved, but there is
an awkward section of descent through
rough and sometimes rather wet ground
towards the end of the day.
As we climb towards our first summit
we pass the remains of the Garryhorn lead
mines. Although these mines were mostly
active in the late nineteenth century,
mining continued here well into the twentieth
century and a small community was living
here until the 1950's. Leaving the ruins
behind us we take to the open hillside
and head for Coran of Portmark (623 metres)
at the northern end of the chain. From
here we look down on the waters of Loch
Doon, whose history can be traced back
over 8000 years to Mesolithic times. We
also have our first fine vista across
to Shalloch on Minnoch and the Range of
the Awful Hand. From Coran of Portmark
we follow the grassy ridge over Bow and
Meaul, then on to Carlin's Cairn (807
metres).
We descend to the south off Carlin's
Cairn, then climb quite steeply up to
the trig point on the bare summit plateau
of Corserine, (at 814 metres it is one
of only three Corbets in Southern Scotland).
To the west the remote and rugged interior
of the Galloway Hills is spread out before
us - a great mountain wilderness with
the rocky faces of Hoodens Hill and Mulwarchar
in the foreground and beyond them the
distinctive profile of the Range of the
Awful Hand.
We catch views of Loch Enoch beyond the
steep rocky faces of the Dungeon and Craignaw
as we continue to a col between Corserine
and Milfire. This col provided a route
through the mountains from the little
croft at Backhill of Bush (which is now
a mountain bothy) to the settlements further
east. On one occasion in the early years
of the twentieth century, a body was being
taken by donkey from the Backhill of Bush
across this pass to be buried in Dalry.
Progress was halted by a blizzard, however,
and the body had to be left for three
days at the top of the pass until the
weather cleared. Far below us to our east,
near the Hawse Burn, we can just make
out the memorial cairn to Ralph Furlow,
a shepherd lad who also died in a blizzard
here whilst trying to gather his sheep.
Hopefully there will be no blizzards confronting
us as we continue on to the rockier slopes
of Milldown (738 metres) and then pass
the dark waters of the Lochans of Auchniebut
before the last short climb of the day
onto Meikle Millyea.
We descend quite steeply at times over
rough ground on the Meikle Lump to reach
a forest track. The estate here is owned
by Fred Olsen of shipping fame. Finally
we follow the track down over easy ground
to our transport, which will take us back
to Newton Stewart. Please note that owing
to the length of this walk and its distance
from Newton Stewart, the start time is
earlier than other walks in order to allow
plenty of time to return and have a shower
and meal before the evening slide show.
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